Planting Your Grapes...

Always plant the graft union 1.5-2" above the ground in zones 6b-7b

- Note: the ground can settle on deep holes

Planting for Pots

Late April - Early June is the best time

- Note: These are just basics and don't make up for a proper education. Ask me about classes at OSU-OKC.

If vines are to be held for any length of time on-site, be sure the vines receive filtered shade and adequate irrigation. Their root-zones are small, so watering will likely be needed daily. Note: Plants on the edge dry out faster and will need spot watering. Wind is very drying so plants should be held in sheltered areas.

1.  Keep vines watered thoroughly before planting, but allow top of potting soil to become somewhat dry when ready to plant.

2.  Dig hole a couple inches deeper and wider than soil ball.

3.  Remove plastic pot. Squeeze the sides then turn upside down and use a 3/8-1/2" bolt to help push the root ball out. If you must pull on the stem/trunk do so very gently. Do this directly where you want to plant, as the root ball is very delicate; and, you want to try not break any of the root hairs.

4.  Plant top of potting soil 1"-1.5" below soil surface. Remember, the soil will settle and the vines may sink some.

- Note: DO NOT DISRUPT ROOT BALL

5.  Lightly crumble soil (herbicide & fertilizer free) around vine and cover root ball with at least 1", mounding slightly. I prefer not to tamp the soil as the water will settle it in.

- Note: Planting below nursery depth will seem contradictory to planting techniques, but grapevines can handle it and it prevents moisture loss.

6. Stakes should be place 2" back and 2" to the side, and the grow tube placed on ASAP.

• Pruning January - March: Leave foliage on the tree (if applicable).

• April - August: Prune laterals. Remove fruit if applicable. New growth should appear in 10-14 days.

• Sept. - December: Leave foliage on tree, prune in late January.
  Watering

- Note: If a significant amount of roots were damaged then similar amount of top growth (if not more) should be pruned.

Watering

The field should have adequate moisture. If dry, pre-irrigate several days in advance.

During the first couple months, the roots are beginning to reach out into the soil.

Secure dripper tube so water is delivered to the root-zone of each plant. Irrigate the planting block as soon as vines are planted in order to settle roots, remove air pockets in the root zone, and allow plants to take up moisture and recover from transplant shock.

Watering of newly planted green vines throughout the first growing season is extremely critical. How well it is carried out will be a huge determining factor in the success of the planting. Soils in the integral root-zone of the new vines must be kept moist at all times. The root-zone should not be kept saturated for long periods of time, nor should it be allowed to dry out. Water to field capacity and allow for some drying. Because soil textures and water holding capacities vary widely it is not possible for us to provide exact watering recommendations, however, 1/2 to 1 gallon of water per vine every 3 to 5 days is a very general guideline.

Remember, as plants grow and daytime temperatures increase, plants will transpire more than they will at planting time. Do not make assumptions about moisture in the root-zone by examining the soil's surface. The best way to check root-zone moisture is by digging down to the root-zone and feeling the soil.

Fertilizing

It is a good idea to fertilize your young tree from April - September. Using a well -balanced fertilizer such as, 15-15-15, is recommended. Apply in a ring 18-24" away from the tree and water in. Begin fertilizing when you see signs of new growth

Planting for Dormant Bareroot plants

-Note These are just basics and don't make up for a proper education. Ask me about classes at OSU-OKC.

-Note: If a significant amount of roots were damaged or pruned then similar amount of top growth (if not more) should be pruned. This is usually done before sale/ship.

The best time to plant dormant vines is late March through the end of April.

Pre-Planting Essentials

Vines need to be planted in a field with adequate moisture. If the field is dry, pre-irrigate several days before beginning planting. Success on non-irrigated sites is not assured.

Vines should be allowed to warm up 4 – 5 days in a barn or garage (out of direct sun) prior to planting. When planting late in the season with daytime temperatures exceeding 65 degrees F, it is essential that plants be held at ambient temperatures until the buds swell. Protect vines from direct sun and prevent them from drying.

Vine roots should be soaked for 24 hours in water (free of pathogens!). Biological preparations such as kelp or humic / fulvic acids may be added to the soak solution. Many growers report very good results.

Planting Essentials

1.  Dig a hole with a shovel 12" to 14" deep and wider than the roots when they are spread out. Score the sides of the hole, especially in soils with high clay content.

2.  Place the vine in the hole, spreading the roots over a cone of soil at the bottom of the hole. Backfill the hole with original soil free of herbicide residue, large clods or rocks. If soil amendments are used, mix them thoroughly into the backfill soil.

3.  Tap down the soil gently as you proceed, while keeping the plant straight and upright. I personally recommend crumbling the soil then letting the water settle.

4.  When the hole is filled and tamped down, the graft union should be 2" above the soil line.

5.  Loose soil (free of herbicides) must be mounded over the vine. This soil mound should extend about 1" above the tip of the plant so none of the plant is showing. This is essential since the soil protects the buds from temperature extremes as the vine comes out of dormancy.

6.  Irrigate right after planting to help settle the roots and remove air pockets around them.

7.  When growth appears, remove the soil mound from around the vine so the graft union is well above the soil line and install a paper vine shelter such as a 1/2 gallon milk carton.

- Note: if the danger of frost is past then you can go straight to grow tubes, instead of mounding the soil.

8.  Water weekly, keeping roots moderately moist in well-drained soil.

a few grafted plants under shade cloth for acclimation":

Why green growing benchgrafts are better: You have a healthy root system fully intact at planting time, instead of losing all the rootlets. Plant directly from the container to the field with little root disruption. Grown in non-soil media, rather than field digging. So no pruned roots and no chance of nematodes or other pest transmission by soil. Easy handling at planting, 4x4x10" pots. Successful planting year round, however, Summer can be very stressful in hot, dry, years.

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